North Wild Kitchen

Tag: winter

Gravlax with Dill-Stewed Potatoes and Mustard Sauce

Lifting the weight and removing the board revealed a two-day culinary journey. Nothing difficult, nothing too time consuming. An act of osmosis. Curing. Transformation. And as the sharpened knife slowly pierced into the orange-pink, dill-infused delicacy, the thrill of knowing the next time step would be getting a taste reached across to everyone in the kitchen. A smooth, grainy and subtly sweet mustard sauce and a warm, hearty bowl of creamy potatoes dancing with dill to round it all off. Luxury at its finest and also its simplest.

Yet, the delicacy we know today has a much different story than its beginning. Gravlax (gravlaks) first appears in documents from the 1300s, informing us of the preservation methods used during these times. During the Middle Ages, people ate many forms of saltwater and freshwater fish that we continue to enjoy today. Salmon held a special place, valued and desired. Unlike today, where we have greater access to fresh salmon, salmon was more of a prized possession. In fact, in a well-known story about the god Tor, who is referred to as the ‘big eater’, Tor has his fill of eight whole salmon (among other things) at a wedding banquet in Jotunheimen. This gives us an idea as to the value placed on salmon and that protecting the surplus of salmon was important, and worth the risks. (Notaker, Ganens Makt)

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April 29, 2016
Pan-Seared Fish & Radish Salad with Slow-Fried Potatoes

It’s that time of year when winter seems to be letting go of its grasp upon the terrain. The daylight sojourns longer and the trees aren’t wrapped in a constant blanket of snow. It’s that time when you start to anticipate an early spring, even though you know full well winter is not quite ready to say its farewells. And like a passionate game of tug-a-war, you go back and forth between the stronghold of winter and the up and coming burst of spring.

Instead of serving up a hot lapskus/stew or heartier fare, the plate yearns for something which resembles a longing for spring, but yet still understands its place in the winter. And this salad – a warm & substantial salad – does just that. With fish and almond potatoes from northern Norway at its center, it is dressed up in simple greens, seared radishes and fresh dill. A salad befitting of both seasons. Something to bring harmony to the in-between. Simple, yet complex. Elegant, yet rustic. Light, yet satisfying.

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February 18, 2016
Aquavit, Raspberry & Cardamom Sorbet (Akevittsorbet)

A friend once introduced me to the amazing combination of vodka, lemon and black pepper, frozen together in a state of utmost bliss. Saved for a special occasion, and served in the heart of winter. Something about fire and ice. Opposites.

Here in Norway, we have firewater. Aquavit (akevitt), that is. Golden or as clear as crystal and as hot on the throat as lava. There’s a saying that goes:

Drik min ven, men drik med maade;

drik, men lad fornuften raade.

Drink, my friend, but drink with moderations;

drink, but let good judgement rule.∗

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February 10, 2016
Fastelavnsboller

Fastelavn. Shrovetide. Carnaval.

Seven weeks before Easter, and sitting at the cusp of Lent, is a celebration spanning the centuries, and evolving to what is known today in Norway as Fastelavn, or ‘the fast evening’. Three days encompass the fastelavnsfeiring celebrations, starting on Fastelavnssøndag (Sunday), followed with Blåmandag(Blue Monday) or Fleskemandag and concluding with Feitetirsdag (Fat Tuesday) or Hvitetirsdag (White Tuesday).

The roots of Fastelavn tie into the fertility cult. When those with life – women, animals & trees – would be awakened to fertility by being struck with the branches of birch trees. This practice is known as Fastelavnris. Birch trees often had buds at this time of year, and those twigs were referred to as life twigs. It was believed that those branches which did not bear buds at this time, had the fertility effect in itself, and were regarded with even more favor. The blossoming buds were also used for crop and weather predictions. Later, with the associations of Christianity, the twigs were regarding as symbols of the Passion of Christ and as the beginning of Lent.

The concept of awakening later turned into an old tradition of waking early from bed and grabbing birch branches to then playfully spank those who were not yet awake. It was normal, up until far into the late 1900s, for children to whip their parents for fun and to be treated to a cream-filled bun afterwards. These buns are still eaten on Sunday.

The star of Fastelavn: a bun. A boller, to be exact. Freshly baked. Sweetened cream nestled inside. Topped with a generous dousing of powered sugar – just enough to crown the lips of the one lucky enough to take a bite. These are decadent, yet simple. Sometimes, a spreading of jam will grace its interior as well, or custard, but traditionally, the cream should suffice. It’s possible these buns originated from the dumplings which previously were eaten with fatty soup and meat on Sunday as a practice of gluttony.

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February 5, 2016
Wild Moose Burger with Forest Berry Relish and Root Vegetable Chips (Elgburger med Skogsbærsaus)

If freezer’s could speak, oh the stories they would tell. When you live in the country, especially in mountain country, you tend to rely very heavily on your preservation methods. And as I rummaged through our freezer full of plastic bags with pureed squash and frozen fruits, and last season’s lamb, fish and beef, I pulled out a couple of perfectly wrapped bundles with ELG scribbled on the outside. The brown butcher paper meticulously folded and sealed, made them look like little gifts. But then again, that’s what nature is. A gift.

Norwegian Elg, sometimes referred to as elk in English, is in actual fact moose, and is known fondly in Norway as the King of the Forest (Skogens Konge). And it’s no wonder, since moose have made their home in Norway for a long time and their very being is a symbol of the wild, and the majesty, and dignity of the landscape. Norwegians love their elg, and have a high respect for the animal, whether it be observing them in their natural habitat or hunting responsibly.

The moose is said to have been one of the first mammals to arrive in Norway after the ice age. When the great ice sheet covering Norway began to melt, moose were quick to take advantage of the areas which emerged. The first traces of moose were found in the eastern parts of Norway and show that they had come from Denmark and Southern Sweden. The oldest trace of moose in Norway were antlers found in a marsh at Fluberg, Oppland. The antlers are dated to be approximately 10,300 years old. (NTNU)

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January 28, 2016
Aniseed Waffles (Vafler med Anis)

Vafler. Norwegian waffles. Endless are the recipes, endless are the occasions to bring out the waffle iron, endless are the memories, and endless are the toppings. Bringing new meaning to the phrase ‘home is where the heart is’, for literally, these heart-shaped, delightful treats are the iconic essence of the Norwegian home. In the 1200s, waffles were considered a love meal in churches in Paris during Easter celebrations, and are also believed to have their roots traced back to monasteries in the Middle Ages. Unleavened bread was made for use during the Eucharist, but they were so delicious that they decided to create something from them called apostle cakes to be used during the holidays. These cakes are quite possibly the precursor to the Seamen’s Church waffles, which today, shaped in hearts, are often symbolic of being both an ailment for the homesick and a heartwarming welcome for Norwegians and friends around the world.*Is it any wonder that the vafler we know today has its connection with something so sweet – something as sweet as honey. Indeed, the pattern of the iron plates is modelled after beeswax cakes from the hive. Vafler derives from the German word, wafel, meaning honeycomb. And this pattern originates from the 1220-1300s. During the 1600-1700s, the waffle iron could be found having a long handle, with a rectangular or heart-shaped iron plate, which could be used over a hearth. It wasn’t until much later that the cast iron became circular with the 5 hearts we are familiar with today. (Source: Vaffeldama)There are many wonderful vafler recipes out there, and being somewhat of a newbie to the art of the nordic staple, I asked around for a solid recipe that I could springboard from. Without hesitation, my friend was quick to recommend a tried and true vafler recipe. Her family’s favorite. The one that superseded all the others. Of course, it had to be one of the world’s best. From the master’s collection. The Seamen’s Church (Sjømannskirken).

And so I confidently set forth mixing and folding. And while it is safe to say that the original recipe needs no adaptation, I did take to a bit of creative licensing and added my own little touch. I swapped the cardamom for another flavor that reminds me of Norway. Anise. It’s delicately taste is somewhat similar to licorice, but softer and sweeter. It compliments the texture of the vafler and adds a bit of freshness with each bite. A dollop of fresh whipped cream or homemade strawberry jam will take you to places yet imagined.

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January 25, 2016