North Wild Kitchen

Category: Meal Type

Aquavit, Raspberry & Cardamom Sorbet (Akevittsorbet)

A friend once introduced me to the amazing combination of vodka, lemon and black pepper, frozen together in a state of utmost bliss. Saved for a special occasion, and served in the heart of winter. Something about fire and ice. Opposites.

Here in Norway, we have firewater. Aquavit (akevitt), that is. Golden or as clear as crystal and as hot on the throat as lava. There’s a saying that goes:

Drik min ven, men drik med maade;

drik, men lad fornuften raade.

Drink, my friend, but drink with moderations;

drink, but let good judgement rule.∗

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February 10, 2016
Fastelavnsboller

Fastelavn. Shrovetide. Carnaval.

Seven weeks before Easter, and sitting at the cusp of Lent, is a celebration spanning the centuries, and evolving to what is known today in Norway as Fastelavn, or ‘the fast evening’. Three days encompass the fastelavnsfeiring celebrations, starting on Fastelavnssøndag (Sunday), followed with Blåmandag(Blue Monday) or Fleskemandag and concluding with Feitetirsdag (Fat Tuesday) or Hvitetirsdag (White Tuesday).

The roots of Fastelavn tie into the fertility cult. When those with life – women, animals & trees – would be awakened to fertility by being struck with the branches of birch trees. This practice is known as Fastelavnris. Birch trees often had buds at this time of year, and those twigs were referred to as life twigs. It was believed that those branches which did not bear buds at this time, had the fertility effect in itself, and were regarded with even more favor. The blossoming buds were also used for crop and weather predictions. Later, with the associations of Christianity, the twigs were regarding as symbols of the Passion of Christ and as the beginning of Lent.

The concept of awakening later turned into an old tradition of waking early from bed and grabbing birch branches to then playfully spank those who were not yet awake. It was normal, up until far into the late 1900s, for children to whip their parents for fun and to be treated to a cream-filled bun afterwards. These buns are still eaten on Sunday.

The star of Fastelavn: a bun. A boller, to be exact. Freshly baked. Sweetened cream nestled inside. Topped with a generous dousing of powered sugar – just enough to crown the lips of the one lucky enough to take a bite. These are decadent, yet simple. Sometimes, a spreading of jam will grace its interior as well, or custard, but traditionally, the cream should suffice. It’s possible these buns originated from the dumplings which previously were eaten with fatty soup and meat on Sunday as a practice of gluttony.

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February 5, 2016
Baked Smoked Salmon & Eggs (Røkelaks og Egg)

It was a gusty weekend throughout parts of Norway as storm Tor made an unwanted appearance. Our little valley seemed to escape its high notes, lending a great excuse to watch the local ski jumping competitions on Saturday with friends – and drink copious amounts of coffee – then stay in all day and do a light brunch on Sunday.

Our hens have been laying more and more eggs and, as such, have given measurable rise to the egg basket collection. I can’t even begin to tell you how wonderful fresh farm eggs are. They have more flavor, more panache, and….well, I suppose they are the best because we have cared for, fed and raised these chickens while spending countless hours protecting them and ensuring the coop does not turn into a freezer as we hit minus temperatures. When you give love, you get love in return. And that’s the payoff. So, our simple brunch of a bed of Norwegian smoked salmon and carmelized leek turned into something a bit more rich and meaningful as we topped it off with our eggs and baked it lovingly in the oven.

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February 2, 2016
Wild Moose Burger with Forest Berry Relish and Root Vegetable Chips (Elgburger med Skogsbærsaus)

If freezer’s could speak, oh the stories they would tell. When you live in the country, especially in mountain country, you tend to rely very heavily on your preservation methods. And as I rummaged through our freezer full of plastic bags with pureed squash and frozen fruits, and last season’s lamb, fish and beef, I pulled out a couple of perfectly wrapped bundles with ELG scribbled on the outside. The brown butcher paper meticulously folded and sealed, made them look like little gifts. But then again, that’s what nature is. A gift.

Norwegian Elg, sometimes referred to as elk in English, is in actual fact moose, and is known fondly in Norway as the King of the Forest (Skogens Konge). And it’s no wonder, since moose have made their home in Norway for a long time and their very being is a symbol of the wild, and the majesty, and dignity of the landscape. Norwegians love their elg, and have a high respect for the animal, whether it be observing them in their natural habitat or hunting responsibly.

The moose is said to have been one of the first mammals to arrive in Norway after the ice age. When the great ice sheet covering Norway began to melt, moose were quick to take advantage of the areas which emerged. The first traces of moose were found in the eastern parts of Norway and show that they had come from Denmark and Southern Sweden. The oldest trace of moose in Norway were antlers found in a marsh at Fluberg, Oppland. The antlers are dated to be approximately 10,300 years old. (NTNU)

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January 28, 2016
Aniseed Waffles (Vafler med Anis)

Vafler. Norwegian waffles. Endless are the recipes, endless are the occasions to bring out the waffle iron, endless are the memories, and endless are the toppings. Bringing new meaning to the phrase ‘home is where the heart is’, for literally, these heart-shaped, delightful treats are the iconic essence of the Norwegian home. In the 1200s, waffles were considered a love meal in churches in Paris during Easter celebrations, and are also believed to have their roots traced back to monasteries in the Middle Ages. Unleavened bread was made for use during the Eucharist, but they were so delicious that they decided to create something from them called apostle cakes to be used during the holidays. These cakes are quite possibly the precursor to the Seamen’s Church waffles, which today, shaped in hearts, are often symbolic of being both an ailment for the homesick and a heartwarming welcome for Norwegians and friends around the world.*Is it any wonder that the vafler we know today has its connection with something so sweet – something as sweet as honey. Indeed, the pattern of the iron plates is modelled after beeswax cakes from the hive. Vafler derives from the German word, wafel, meaning honeycomb. And this pattern originates from the 1220-1300s. During the 1600-1700s, the waffle iron could be found having a long handle, with a rectangular or heart-shaped iron plate, which could be used over a hearth. It wasn’t until much later that the cast iron became circular with the 5 hearts we are familiar with today. (Source: Vaffeldama)There are many wonderful vafler recipes out there, and being somewhat of a newbie to the art of the nordic staple, I asked around for a solid recipe that I could springboard from. Without hesitation, my friend was quick to recommend a tried and true vafler recipe. Her family’s favorite. The one that superseded all the others. Of course, it had to be one of the world’s best. From the master’s collection. The Seamen’s Church (Sjømannskirken).

And so I confidently set forth mixing and folding. And while it is safe to say that the original recipe needs no adaptation, I did take to a bit of creative licensing and added my own little touch. I swapped the cardamom for another flavor that reminds me of Norway. Anise. It’s delicately taste is somewhat similar to licorice, but softer and sweeter. It compliments the texture of the vafler and adds a bit of freshness with each bite. A dollop of fresh whipped cream or homemade strawberry jam will take you to places yet imagined.

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January 25, 2016
Farmhouse Hen & Dumplings (Hønsesuppe med Melboller)

The start of the new year has ushered in an abundance of snow and freezing cold temperatures. Our farm is a blanket of white. Snow so fine, the slightest breeze turns our world into a shaken snow globe. The sounds of the stream can no longer be heard, even faintly. And icicles have made their permanent residence here. It’s dreamy.

These are the days when ultimate comfort food is rich, creamy and hot. It’s nostalgic. When memories of family, the kitchen and the cold collide with all the senses. The days are short, the nights are long, and the desire for comfort is paramount. And for me, the combination of rich soup and pillowy dumplings is one of the most luxurious treats for any winter day.

The concept of dumplings and soup stretches far back across many continents and cuisines. To think of chicken and dumplings as simply a southern dish in America or as something created as a ration during war time or economic turmoil would be very erroneous, to say the very least. Yet, our connections to particular dishes are shaped by our personal experiences. And while my knowledge of chicken & dumplings came from my childhood experience in the kitchen with my mother in America, I know that perception is only a tiny fraction of the larger picture. So I delved a bit deeper, wanting to understand the role this dish played, if any, here in Norway. I picked up a handy and extremely insightful book by Henry Notaker, which details Norwegian cuisine and food culture through a thousand years. History lesson for the day. Check.

I stumbled across an interesting mention of the dish in his book, Ganens Makt. In the first half of the 17th century, Danish cuisine was being observed and probably shared by Norwegian author and academic, Ludvig Holberg. In his comedy, Den Vægelsindede, he writes about a food-loving character named Apicius, who lists all the delicacies he has eaten in a long monologue. One being, hønsekjøttsuppe med boller (hen soup with balls). Therefore, perhaps the introduction of the dish was of Danish influence. But even though chickens were found extensively across Norway, they were used mainly for egg production rather than their meat. Chicken, turkey & fowl were seen as delicacies, usually served to foreign guests. So despite there being a mention of the dish, the use of chicken for its meat was rare. Perhaps because the cost in comparison to the amount of meat per hen was much greater than, say, for a calf or sheep. Recipes for chicken appear in greater quantity in Schønberg Erken’s cookbook from 1914, but this was intended for an international audience. In her schoolbooks (local audience), she only mentions roast chicken and hen fricassee. In a small economic cookbook from 1935, the author notes that several places had begun selling ‘casserole prepared’, or cut and ready to cook, chicken which took away the hard work of plucking and preparing and perhaps started a new phenomenon among the eating habits of chicken in Norway. Chicken was no longer as luxurious as it had once been.

Thankfully, nostalgia is a wonderful thing. The longing for something which once was. This is my homage to the chicken. In particular, the hen. To place it back on its pedestal, saved for that special occasion. When the frost is hovering and the wood in the fire is crackling. When the table is set and the silver spoons are out.

For chicken soups, I prefer to use stewing hens, or laying hens which are no longer productive egg producers. Their size and age yield a more rich and flavorful stock than commercial chickens, which are bread for their meat. And while stewing hens require a bit more work and patience due to their tough meat, the payoff is incredible. Full-bodied broth, texture, and deep flavor. The epitome of luxury.
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January 13, 2016